Bibendum and Yves Tumor's Praise a Lord...
In a 2023 interview, Courtney Love told Yves Tumor, “You’re occupying spaces that—I’ve been there as a woman—are traditionally held by a certain type of person that isn’t us.” She points out that Yves, who is a Black artist with he/they pronouns, is “in the rock world, a space that’s been mostly occupied by white, straight boys.”
Trying to categorize their music feels futile—and they seem to prefer it that way. Yes, some of it’s rock. You could also call it experimental and avant garde. They play with an expanse of different genres. What’s clear is that they’re shaking things up in established territories. There’s a distinct freshness that’s arresting.
Similarly, Jonathan Jacquart is a winemaker who’s bringing a new energy and background to an ancient wine region with a 2,000+ year old winemaking tradition. While he may not stand out demographically in a field dominated by white men, his background and approach set him apart. He comes from a different part of the industry and didn’t inherit his role as the next generation of a winemaking family. More importantly, he’s making wine in a way that’s all his own.
Domaine de la Grande Colline vineyard
Jonathan took over winemaking at Domaine de la Grande Colline in the Northern Rhône from previous vigneron Hirotake Ooka. Since then, he’s introduced new biodiversity to the vineyards, including cows, bees, and a variety of plants. He began his career as a sommelier in Paris before transitioning into winemaking, learning from Rhône legends Emmanuel Reynaud and Thierry Allemand. When Thierry purchased Grande Colline, he brought Jonathan on as both partner and winemaker.
The estate is in the historic village of Cornas, a region that produces some of the best Syrah in the world. Cornas Syrahs are brooding, burly, and meaty with tons of depth. But it’s not Syrah—the crown jewel of Northern Rhône—that makes up Grande Colline’s Bibendum wine. That one is 100% Cinsault.
In contrast to Syrah, Cinsault is typically lighter, less complex, and often tucked into rosés and Côtes du Rhône blends. It can be overlooked, but I love a single varietal Cinsault when it’s set up to shine on its own, like it does in the Bibendum.
La Grande Colline lies at the very top of the hill in Cornas, towering over the rest of the dramatically steep vineyards of the region. The Bibendum reflects the vineyard’s commanding post with a confident, expressive character. It exudes a controlled wildness — a mix of wildflower, fresh earth, savory herb, and berry aromas waft from the glass.
This is a very Syrah-like Cinsault with extremely well-integrated leather, spice, and gamey notes mingling with ripe, concentrated fruit flavors. It’s lifted and vibrant with just enough grip. It’s clean but rustic.
This wine and Yves’ music are intrinsically stylish, like Chloe Sevigny. They’re both putting on a performance that feels pure and authentic, not one that tries too hard.
The opening track of Praise a Lord Who Chews but Which Does Not Consume; (Or Simply, Hot Between Worlds) is trance-like. “God is a Circle” sucks you into the vortex that is the album. It feels a little dangerous in an exciting way that you’re helpless against. It captures the ache and thrill of obsession with lyrics like: 🎶 Loving you 🎶 It hurts sometimes 🎶 But I can't help it 🎶 'Cause it makes me feel alive 🎶
Praise a Lord is a ride. It’s at times noisy, trippy, dreamy, punk, and Prince-esque. It’s adventurous and expansive, but never chaotic. Likewise, the Bibendum is bold and expressive, but made with a simple and minimal approach. They’re both playful while treated with great care.
Praise a Lord is layered with fuzzy and driving guitar, soaring synths, and sexy, echoey vocals. Yves’ lyrics are poetic, vulnerable, and contemplative. As for the sensory experience of this album and wine together, it’s delicious, atmospheric, and immersive.
To the extent that a piece of music or bottle of wine can feel edgy — these two accomplish that. As Courtney Love told Yves, “You’re in dangerous territory because you are dangerous and that is why I’m talking to you.”
Cheers to the daring artists of both the musical and wine varieties.
